What are the physical characteristics of Chihuahuas?

Chihuahuas go under the classification of "toy breeds." They are the smallest breed of dog in the world. They are, in fact, the only "natural" toy breed. That is, they are naturally small and aren't a result of "breeding-down" larger breeds, as were other toy breeds.

 

Chihuahuas can be smooth-coats or long-coats. Interestingly, there is no breeding distinction made between the two in the United States, since in the States, both smooth-coats and long-coats can occur in a litter.

 

The breed standard, approved September 11, 1990 disqualifies any dog over 6 pounds from the conformation ring; however, they can weigh up to 10 pounds or more.

 

One of the Chihuahua’s most distinctive characteristics is its head, which in some is well-rounded and referred to by breeders as an "apple-head". Its muzzle is extraordinarily tiny. Pink noses are sometimes found on blonde Chihuahuas.

 

Another distinctive physical feature of the Chihuahua is the ears: large, held erect, and flaring to the sides at an angle of about 45 degrees, the Chihuahua uses its ears to express a variety of emotions and responses.

 

The eyes, usually dark and luminous, are wide-set. Again, blondes may have lighter eyes. Tears are often produced in abundance to keep the large eyes lubricated, and it is not unusual for tears to fly from a Chihuahua’s face when it shakes its head during play.

 

The back should be level and the rib-cage rounded. Some Chihuahuas may actually have barrel-shaped rib-cages, but professional breeders find this undesirable. The hindquarters are muscular and thin.

 

They have stick-like legs and dainty feet. The tail is longish carried either in a sickle fashion or in a loop with the tip touching the back.

 

Finally, coat color: there are a variety of shades, including brindle, blonde, black, brown, fawn, blue, and "splashed." It is interesting to note that Mexico prefers the jet black with tan markings, and the black and white spotted; the United States overwhelmingly prefers the solid colors, especially fawn.

 

 

How big will my Chihuahua get?

Size ranges on the Chihuahua breed of 2 to 16 pounds, and all are purebred.  The only way you can judge how much it will weigh in adulthood is the parental line.  The only answer that we can give that will be absolutely true is "we aren't sure." We can make an educated guess. That's all any breeder can do. Most really reputable breeders will not guarantee size of a puppy because we cannot know for sure. We use a weight chart, and take the puppy's weight and plot it on the chart. That, in combination with experience, gives us an educated guess that we can pass on to you. BUT, the chart and experience are not always right. There are just too many factors involved in determining a puppy's size for us to try to guarantee it.

 

 

What is the difference between a deer head Chihuahua and an apple head Chihuahua?

Officially, there is no such thing as a deer head, but unofficially it is a well-known and accurate description of a specific looking type of Chihuahua. A deer head Chihuahua usually has a narrower dome and typically has a longer snout as well. They have more of a sloping stop between the forehead and the snout, similar to a deer. They usually have longer legs and a thinner body type. The apple head Chihuahua has a wider domed head and usually a shorter snout. The stop between the forehead and the snout is a sharp nearly 90 degree angle. Their bodies are usually shorter and stockier.

 

 

Can Chihuahuas live a long time?

Chihuahuas can live sometimes up to 18 years or older!

 

 

What is the usual Chihuahua temperament?

Each dog of this breed has their own unique personality; this is a very individualistic breed. However, a few generalizations can be made. Chihuahuas are graceful, energetic, and swift-moving canines. They have often been described as having "terrier-like" qualities; that is, the qualities of being alert, observant, and keen on interacting with their masters. They are extremely loyal and get attached to one or two persons.

 

These tiny dogs are certainly unaware of their diminutive stature: they can be bold with other dogs much larger than themselves, and protective of their masters. They are fiercely loyal to their masters and wary of any strangers or new guests introduced into the household, which the Chihuahua considers to be its personal domain. For these reasons, Chihuahuas make good watch dogs (not guard dogs, though!).

 

The Chihuahua needs a great deal of human contact: touching, petting, and general attention. If the Chihuahua does not get this, she/he will use various attention-getting tricks until you give her/him attention (using their paws to lightly scratch your hand, 'talking' to you, climbing on you to get into your face).  Some owners who have had other, more independent breeds may find the Chihuahua too needy. However, Chihuahuas give a lot of love and affection in return for your care.

 

Keeping more than one Chihuahua can greatly ease the dog's stress when left alone each day if the owner works. (They will compete for your attention when you get home, though!)

 

Because they are by nature gentle, loyal, and sweet-tempered, Chihuahuas are ideal for single people, the elderly, the handicapped, and shut-ins. They will keep you company for hours by lying on your lap or beside your torso if in bed, and treat you like royalty. No one with a Chihuahua in their household will ever be truly alone!

 

When looking for a happy, healthy and intelligent dog with an excellent temperament, the Chihuahua can provide all you need in a loving pet companion, provided it is well-trained and socialized. The unconditional love provided in return is immeasurable!

 

 

Are Chihuahuas yappy, highly-strung dogs?
Chihuahuas can actually be VERY quiet, well-behaved dogs.  It just requires the proper amount of training and socialization, as with ANY dog.  If left alone for long periods of time, they will become bored and reactive to what’s going on in their surroundings.  They can also be nervous in social situations, as they can be very wary of strangers and take their time in getting to know other people.  This is probably why they have a reputation of being yappy or highly-strung.  HOWEVER, they are not highly strung with their family at all.  If they are properly taken care of, kept indoors, and well socialized, they are one of the most loving and loyal dogs.

 

 

Are Chihuahuas good with children?
If you properly socialize your Chihuahua from a very young age, and ensure that you acquire a Chihuahua with sound temperament, they are very gentle and loving with children. However, if a rough child unintentionally harms him he may retaliate in defense.  After all, would you let someone keep poking you in the eye or pulling your ear without doing anything?  So young children should be supervised at all times and children should be trained to be extra careful and gentle.  This goes with ANY dog though.  Well-socialized dogs of all kinds do well around children, generally speaking, but supervising interactions between dogs and children is always a must in any setting. Some children may not know how to interact with dogs so take advantage of every opportunity to teach children how to treat animals appropriately.

 

 

Can a Chihuahua get along with a large-breed dog?

If you own a gentle giant that is not rambunctious and is very aware of his body space (knows where he is lying down, what his front and hind ends are doing at the same time) you can have a toy/giant pairing and everyone will get along happily. Basically, the safety of your Chihuahua is the primary issue here.

 

If you're looking for an age of dog that is virtually assured to get along, littermates or puppies of roughly the same age almost always grow up to be best buddies. They are, however, holy terrors for the first year of their lives. If you have a lot of energy, training experience, and patience, you might consider this option.

 

Another age combination that works well is a puppy with a mature dog. In this case, the puppy usually grows up accepting the older dog's alpha status and does nothing to challenge this situation. A puppy with a senior Chihuahua is also considered a good combination; studies have shown that the senior dog benefits greatly from the added mental and physical stimulation of a puppy in the house. An adult Chihuahua paired with another adult Chihuahua can work well, too.

 

 A properly socialized Chihuahua can handle himself well around dogs of ANY size.  They know when to move out of the way if a big dog runs by and how to act if a big dog greets them.  Of course you have to be careful around dogs with higher prey-drives, but generally Chihuahuas can be around and even live pleasantly with dogs of all breeds and sizes.

 

 

Are Chihuahuas sociable?

It depends.   Without adequate socialization, Chihuahuas can be very wary and cautious of people and dogs they don’t know.    They may bark, growl, or stay at a distance until they feel comfortable.  HOWEVER, if you properly socialize your dog (like with any dog), they will actually crave and enjoy the company of other animals and people.  Many well-socialized Chihuahuas thrive in multi-dog households and enjoy outings at dog parks or dog daycare centers. Because these dogs tend to cling to the owners without much interaction with other people and pets, they can have a strong territorial personality. Socializing your Chihuahua puppy helps him/her to adjust and feel comfortable with other humans and animals that it meets. Despite its size, you want a dog in the home that is well-behaved, of sound temperament and loving to those who come to visit.All dogs can be socialized, but the Chihuahua does seem to be more difficult.  Chihuahuas tend to be very clannish and actually do seem to prefer their own kind over other breeds.  They can be sociable, if raised with other dogs and animals or if they are exposed to them constantly.

 

 Socialization is the act of introducing your Chihuahua to a wide range of situations so that he is comfortable in them.  Dogs need to be socialized from a very early age – especially Chihuahuas.  The personality of your Chihuahua will be strongly affected by his interactions or lack of interactions with people, situations, and other dogs when he is a puppy.  By socializing your Chihuahua puppy you make him familiar and comfortable with a range of situations so that he does not become fearful of these situations when he grows older – which can result in a range of behavior problems.  Socializing is especially important from the time when your puppy is born up until he is 12 weeks old.  He needs to be with his mother and litter for at least the first 8 weeks of his life.  When you bring your puppy home you should give him a lot of love and attention and introduce him to other dogs, neighbors, friends, sounds, and so forth AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.  You should do this in a very non-threatening way so that he feels secure but so that he can see that these things are going to be a part of his life.  Socializing your puppy will help him to grow up with a sound temperament.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas bark a lot?
Barking is part of being a dog and Chihuahuas are dogs, after all.  The amount and type of barking displayed has much to do with the individual dog, his environment, management, and training, especially early in life.  Some people feel that, because of their size, Chihuahuas don’t require training to not bark or act out on leash, which simply isn’t the case.  Curbing such behaviors through management and training is key with any dog, including Chihuahuas.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas make good watch dogs?

Chihuahuas are very alert and because they can be wary of strangers they love to bark at them – especially anyone who enters their turf.  This breed can also make excellent watch dogs because of their alert nature. This is when barking should be allowed.

 

 

My Chihuahua's shivering.  Is this because she's/he's cold?

Chihuahuas do shiver when they're cold, but they also shiver when they are wary, excited, unhappy, or frightened. This is a result of having a high metabolism, and is a normal characteristic of this breed.

 

 

Can a Chihuahua handle cold weather?

They are very sensitive to cold temperatures. Dress your Chihuahua appropriately for cold weather. Chihuahua clothes are not just for cuteness.  In temperatures of 35-40 degrees Farenheit, it is recommended to dress your Chihuahua in a special dog sweater for brief walks (believe it or not – they will thank you!!).  If they will accept it, put booties on them.  Long coated Chihuahuas grow hair between their pads, if this hair gets wet, their feet can get very cold.  Walking your Chihuahua in temperatures below 35 degrees Farenheit is strongly discouraged, especially when there is a wind-chill factor.  In some cold regions, an indoor heater may be necessary to keep your Chihuahua comfortable.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas like sun-bathing?

Chihuahuas love basking in the sun, the more sun they can get the happier they seem to be.  Unfortunately, they are not sensible in this regard and will stay in the sun even when panting begins.  Watch your Chihuahua in hot weather to be sure that they don’t suffer from heat stroke.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas like to burrow?

Chihuahuas love to burrow under the blankets.  Make sure you always keep a warm blanket in his bed so that he can crawl under to feel safe, warm, and comfortable.

 

 

Are Chihuahuas outdoor dogs?
Chihuahuas are very sensitive to the cold and they crave human love and attention. They are NOT an outside dog and should live INSIDE the home.  It is no myth that the Chihuahua is not a typical outdoor dog. They are very sensitive to the elements, are not fond of the cold, snow and rain, plus they crave the love and attention of their humans. It is not to say they can’t brave the elements momentarily to do their business but it is not wise to keep your little Chihuahua outdoors for any extended period of time, despite the weather. They can also be in danger of other animals of prey such as hawks, coyotes and more.

 

 

Will my Chihuahua need to be groomed?

Yes, you will need to groom your Chihuahua, but very little.

Keep in mind, some dogs LOVE having a bath, and some do not. With a little patience and persistence, most Chihuahuas will learn to enjoy and comply with being bathed and groomed.

 

 

How often do I bathe my new Chihuahua puppy?
It depends on the weather and also on the schedule you want your dog to get used to. We recommend once a month. It is not recommended for any breed of dog to be bathed and then go outdoors in cold weather.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas shed?

Both long-coat and smooth-coat Chihuahuas will in fact shed.  Unfortunately, this is just one of their "characteristics" that you must learn to cope with.  A "single coated" Chihuahua in short or long coats (without an undercoat), will generally shed less than those that are "double coated".  Like most dogs, Chihuahuas will shed a greater amount of fur during the spring and summer months when their winter coat is no longer needed.  Chihuahuas tend to keep their fur throughout the winter for an added level of protection against the cold temperatures.  Once winter is gone and the temperatures begin to rise, the shedding will start again.  Keep an eye your Chihuahua towards the end of the winter season to see when they start shedding.

 

Here are some of the tried and proven ways to reduce a Chihuahua’s shedding:

The first line of defense you have against a shedding Chihuahua is proper grooming.  Brushing a Chihuahua’s coat will naturally work to remove loose fur that would otherwise fall on the floor or your furniture.  Ideally, you should use a very fine-bristled comb that's capable of attracting excess fur.  The Shed Ender, Furminator and FurBuster are all excellent choices that specifically target excess fur.

 

* In addition to brushing, you should also be bathing your Chihuahua occasionally as part of their overall grooming routine.  Brushing will likely get "most" of the loose fur off your Chihuahua’s body, but some of it will inevitably stay on until it falls off somewhere inside your home.  Bathing them, however, will help wash away any fur that was missed when brushing.  The bottom of your bathtub might have a nice pile of fur afterwards, but that's better than it ending up on the floor of your home.

 

* As previously mentioned, Chihuahuas tend to shed more during the spring and summer months, so you'll want to focus your grooming efforts during this time of year.  This doesn't necessarily mean that they won't shed during winter, but if they do it will be significantly less.

 

 

Are Chihuahuas "hypoallergenic"?

The name "Hypoallergenic" as it relates to dog breeds is commonly used to refer to a dog breed (or crossbreed) that is more compatible with allergic persons than other breeds.  However, prominent allergen researchers have claimed that there is no basis to the claims that certain dog breeds are hypoallergenic and, while allergen levels vary among individual dogs, the breed is not a significant factor.  If a Chihuahua happens to "work" for some allergic individuals, great, but it's more likely that an allergic person will need a breed with a wiry/curly coat plus no undercoat: poodles, bichons, and some terriers. Even those breeds don't work for some allergic people, so it depends on the individual.

 

 

Should I get a Chihuahua the same sex/age as my current dog?

Unless your current dog is dog aggressive, they will usually get along with just about any dog; however, there are some good guidelines to follow that will help ensure a good match. Variables that can affect the success of adding a second or third dog include the breeds of all dogs involved, their ages, and their sexes.

 

As far as various breeds are concerned, Chihuahuas love Chihuahuas. Even if two Chihuahuas don't know each other, they will often act as if they are long-lost friends the first time they meet. Chihuahuas not only recognize members of their own breed, but they seem to revel in their company. A Chihuahua/Chihuahua pairing is usually best; however, if you already own a sweet toy breed or toy mix, adding a Chihuahua to your dog family will usually go smoothly. Pairing toy breeds together tends to keep the playing field even among dogs.

 

 

I've heard Chihuahuas do better in pairs.  Is that true?

Yes...they do better in pairs.  When you have two Chihuahua puppies together, they keep each other company, making them less likely to cry at night when you first bring them home.  Also, they learn from each other, making it easier to house train two of them together.  Chihuahuas are very social and they love company, so they do very well in pairs.  BUT, it should also be said that if you get a single Chihuahua, your Chihuahua WILL housetrain.  And he WILL stop crying at night from separation from his siblings.  It just tends to go a little faster with two as opposed to one.  A single Chihuahua puppy WILL be just as happy and well adjusted as a pair would be.

 

 

How old does my Chihuahua have to be before coming home?

We like to send our puppies home with their new owners no sooner than 10 weeks of age. Smaller Chihuahuas may not be placed until closer to the 12 - 16 week age range due to their small size (fragility)and stress induced hypoglycemia concerns.

 

 

When do I start training my puppy?

The basics need to be estabished soon after bringing puppy home.  It needs to get used to people, new things, other animals and various noises.  The real dog training of various skills you can leave for later, at about the 5th months of its life.  However, they are not one of the easiest to train breeds. This means you will have to spend more time with them and have more patience while training them.

 

 

Is crate training cruel?

No. Dogs are den animals by nature. If their crate is accessible to them at all times, you will find that they go in it when they want to sleep or get away from any commotion that may be going on. The crate is not to be used for punishment.

 

 

Do Chihuahuas need exercise?
Because Chihuahuas are so tiny they can get most of their daily exercise requirement by walking and running around inside and in the backyard.  But taking him for a walk a couple of times per week, or even every day, is recommended to keep him extra fit and healthy.  He will enjoy it too!  They still love going for walks and can benefit from daily games of fetch, chase and tug-of-war with a favorite toy.

 

 

Why do you advise against early spay and neuter for your Chihuahuas?

Think rationally. How would removing a child's reproductive organs before puberty affect their growth, maturation, and development? Puberty and sexual maturation is imperative for bone, brain and organ development. The same is true for your dogs.

 

 

What does it mean when my dog keep sliding on its bottom?

It usually means that you dog has blocked anal glands.  Chihuahuas suffer from this quiet often.  You can release the pressure yourself at home visit your vet to help you.  If you need to do so the first time and you have never seen it done in practice I recommend a visit to your vet for guidance.

 

Another possibility is that you puppy has worms. In that case, take part of your dog’s excrement  for analysis or use worming tablets.  You can obtain worming paste or tablets at your vet’s office or at a pet supplie store.

 

 

What special medical needs do Chihuahuas have?

While Chihuahuas have fewer genetic defects than many breeds, no breed is perfect.

 

General Chihuahua concerns:

Subluxation of the patella (slipped stifles or loose kneecaps) -

What is Luxating Patella (or Patellar Luxation)?

The patella, or "kneecap," is normally located in a groove on the end of the femur, or thighbone.

 

The term luxating means "out of place" or "dislocated". Therefore, a luxating patella is a kneecap that moves out of its normal location (we're talking about the rear legs). It generally resumes its normal anatomical orientation after only a brief period of luxation in most dogs. A dog with a mild case can live a normal life, kind of like a person with a trick knee. Subluxation of the patella is a relatively common problem in small breeds.

 

What are the Symptoms of Luxating Patella?

Patellar luxation occurs within four levels of severity, with each level displaying similar as well as unique symptoms. One of the most obvious signs of luxating patella is one already mentioned, a skip in a dog’s step while running. Some pet parents might note a pop in the dog’s knee joint area while holding their dogs.

 

Most pet parents with small breeds are very familiar with the cute skip they may often see in their dogs’ step when their dogs frolic about. It may look a bit like Charlie Chaplin’s gait, silly and sweet, but this little hop can be more painful than humorous for some dogs. A skip in a dog’s step can indicate that the dog is suffering from a luxating patella that over time may progress into a condition requiring surgical intervention.

 

The condition is diagnosed by a veterinarian by stages 1-4 (one and two being mild, three and four being a serious concern.)

* Grade 1

Grade one pets do not experience pain. Their kneecaps pop out of place intermittently and can be easily massaged back into place when the legs are extended.

* Grade 2

Grade two pets have less stable knees. The kneecaps can be massaged back into their grooves, but they pop back out again once the knees are manually flexed or they have taken a few steps. With time, some of these pets will develop pain and arthritis associated with their problem.

* Grade 3

Those in which the problem seems more pronounced or when persistent pain or arthritic changes are arbitrarily placed in grade three.

* Grade 4

These are pets whose kneecaps will not stay in their grooves even for short periods. These dogs have a hard time walking. Dogs that have suffered this degree of joint damage for more than a year or two usually have pain, and have developed arthritis and degenerative joint disease. They usually walk with crouching stances and stand knock-kneed with their toes turned inward.

 

In the more severe levels, grades 3 and 4, a dog most likely developed the condition earlier in life but never saw a doctor until it was middle-aged. Most of the animals seen by veterinarians for this condition are over six months old, but severe defects can be pronounced as soon as eight to ten weeks of age.

 

What Causes Luxating Patella?

Genetics plays a large role in the causes behind patellar luxation.

 

This condition is one of the “most common congenital anomalies in dogs,” noting that 7 percent of puppies are diagnosed with patellar luxation. Though luxating patella can be the result of traumatic injury to the knee, most luxating patella comes without a clear cause. Dogs diagnosed early on with patellar luxation that are predisposed to it and have not had any trauma to their knees most likely have the condition as a result of abnormalities in their entire hind limb.

 

First, and most common, is a weak or stretched lateral patellar ligament. In almost all cases, this is a problem the pet is born with. Although only one knee may appear to be affected, in most cases, both knees share some degree of the problem.

 

Second is a trochlear groove that is too shallow. In order for the patella not to jump out of this tract, the groove must be deep enough to accommodate and cradle the patella as it moves up and down in the groove. Some dogs are born with an abnormally shallow trochlear groove.

 

Third is a problem that occurs when the lower attachment of the kneecap ligament is too far to the inner side of the shinbone or tibia. This is a frequent problem in dogs that are bred to have exceptionally short legs (like Dachshunds). When dogs develop luxating patellas before the tibia has reached maturity, it is also possible for the point of attachment to shift inward – throwing off the alignment.

 

How is Luxating Patella Treated?

The only viable treatment for patellar luxation is surgery. Though it’s the only way to correct the condition as well as is possible, not all levels of the condition need surgery. Dogs with grade 1 or grade 2 patellar luxation (not exhibiting signs of pain) do not need surgery. Dogs in these two levels are those that will always have a hop in their step, but aren’t suffering the excruciating pain that would require surgery.

 

These dogs be kept on a balanced diet and kept lean to alleviate any extra weight on the hips and knees that could aggravate the condition. Also trimming the dog’s toenails to prevent any snagging that could cause trauma to the knee. Lastly, feeding the dog a glucosamine and chondroitin supplement to help provide some extra relief to the dog’s knees and to help slow the acceleration of arthritis.

 

Dogs that show signs of pain are in the beginning stages of knee arthritis and those that fall in grades 3 and 4 require surgery. Before doing surgery, rule out any other joint problems that may be causing the dog’s pain and symptoms.  Left untreated, patellar luxation can worsen and make it more and more difficult for a dog to walk.

 

If your dog requires surgery for this condition, they will undergo one or several of three surgeries: lateral imbrications, trochlear modification, or tibial crest transposition. The surgeries are as follows and involve the outlined procedures:

1. Lateral Imbrication (also called Lateral Reinforcement)

When the patella slips out of its groove, the joint capsule surrounding it is stretched to allow this motion. Imbrication simply involves taking a tuck in the joint capsule. The tightened joint capsule does not allow for the slipping of the kneecap and the kneecap is confined to its proper groove.

2. Trochlear Modification

The patella rides in a groove at the bottom of the femur (thigh bone). In toy breed dogs this groove is shallow, which allows the patella to slip. If the groove is deepened, the patella stays where it belongs. The normal groove in the femur is lined by slippery lubricated cartilage, called hyaline cartilage. This cartilage is peeled or cut away, the bone underneath is sliced out to form a deeper groove, and the cartilage is replaced. Techniques that do not preserve the original cartilage are no longer recommended.

3. Tibial Crest Transposition

If the knock-kneed conformation has already started to set in, the tibias (or leg bones) will have rotated.  Specifically, the crest on the tibia where the thigh muscle (the quadriceps femoris) attaches may have migrated inward. If this is the case, the crest will have to be removed and pinned back where it belongs to straighten out the leg. Severe rotation of the tibias may involve actually cutting through the entire bone and de-rotating it back into place.

 

Following the surgery, your dog will go through a period of recovery. Your dog will be sent home bandaged up and you will most likely be told to restrict their exercise. If your dog needs to go outdoors, use a leash and be careful not to allow too much activity. If your dog is difficult to keep calm, you may want to speak to your veterinarian about tranquilization to keep them from causing harm to the leg. As always, a cone collar will most likely go home with your dog to keep her from chewing at the stitches.

Some veterinarians will give dogs antibiotics to deter infections. Complications after the surgery are minimal and a dog is usually up and back to their old tricks within three to four weeks if only the knee ligaments were reinforced. The recovery time is longer for the more complicated procedures, about six to eight weeks. Three weeks or so after surgery, physical therapy, swimming, hydrotherapy and range of motion exercises will help prevent muscle contraction and reluctance to use the leg.

 

Hypoglycemia

Chihuahuas and other Toy-breed dogs are not only at risk for hypoglycemia, they can die from the low blood sugar disorder if they do not receive prompt treatment.

 

Hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar, is a possible problem with all toy breed puppies. Veterinarians unfamiliar with toys often misdiagnose the condition as viral hepatitis or encephalitis.  As a toy breed pet owner, it is important to recognize the symptoms of hypoglycemia and know how to treat it.

 

Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress.  Many puppies are lost needlessly to hypoglycemia because of ignorance on the part of their owner or veterinarian.

 

When a dog's blood sugar, or glucose, level drops, it can affect neurological function. Disorientation, tremors and coma may occur.  Normally, hormones stimulate the breakdown of stored glycogen to supply the brain and other tissues with fuel.  In toy breeds, this process may not happen fast enough, and hypoglycemia results.

 

Juvenile hypoglycemia occurs in puppies less than 3 months of age.  Because puppies have not fully developed the ability to regulate blood glucose concentration and have a high requirement for glucose, they are vulnerable.  Stress, cold, malnutrition and intestinal parasites also may trigger juvenile hypoglycemia.

 

It is important to understand that just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia; it does not mean that the puppy is truly "hypoglycemic."  True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the pancreas.  Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction to stress.

 

Hypoglycemic incidents are almost always preceded by a stress of some kind.

Some examples of common stresses include: weaning, teething, vaccinations, a change in environment, shipping, transition to their new homes, over-handling, cold temperatures, intestinal parasites, infections, anorexia, etc.  Many puppies simply play too hard and stress their system or forget to eat.

 

Toy Breed Puppies often do not have the fat reserves to supply adequate glucose in times of stress or when they do not eat regularly.  Hypoglycemia most often occurs when the puppy has not eaten for several hours.  This is not always the case, however.  A puppy can have eaten recently and still show signs of hypoglycemia if his system is stressed and the food has not been digested and assimilated.

 

It is important to "free feed" toy puppies a high quality food.  Toy puppies simply have too high of an energy level to be restricted to scheduled feedings.  Most do fine if switched to scheduled feedings when they reach adulthood, but they must have access to food and water at all times when they are puppies.

 

Signs and Symptoms of Hypoglycemia

The first sign of hypoglycemia is the puppy slowing down and then acting listless.  The puppy will then begin to tremble or shiver.  This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose.  The trembling is followed by a blank stare and the puppy lying on his side.  He may also experience convulsions.  After a time, the puppy will become comatose.  His body will be limp, lifeless, and the tongue and gums will be a grayish/blue color.  The body temperature will be subnormal.  The puppy may even appear to be dead.

 

If caught in the early stages, treatment is simple.  Rub Nutri-Cal/ Fortical, glucose gel, or Karo syrup on the puppy's gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth.  (Caution: do not use honey.)  Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body temperature.  If the puppy responds, all is well.  Feed a quality canned food right away (you may want to mix it with egg yolk) OR Gerber’s baby food (chicken or beef) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur.  Be sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible.

 

If caught in the more advanced stages, treatment is more complicated.  Always assume that the puppy is alive.  Rub Nutri-Cal/ Fortical, glucose gel, or Karo syrup in the mouth, and carefully insert a small amount in the rectum. Slowly warm the puppy to normal body temperature (101-102 degrees F) and keep him warm continuously with light heat.  If the puppy still does not respond, carefully administer Nutri-Cal/ Fortical, glucose gel, or Karo syrup by oral syringe into the mouth, a little at a time.  Call your veterinarian and inform him that you have a hypoglycemic puppy.  He will prepare a warmed dextrose solution to inject subcutaneously and may put your puppy on an IV drip.

 

Request a fecal exam.  Your puppy may have intestinal parasites such as worms, coccidia, or giardia that need to be eliminated immediately.  A bacterial or viral infection may also be present and antibiotic treatment necessary.  If your puppy has been given glucose injections, it is probably a good idea to treat him with antibiotics so that infection does not occur.  Your vet will likely recommend a prescription canned food to give as your puppy recovers.  You can finger feed from the can and add electrolyte solution or Pedialyte to the drinking water. You must also keep the puppy warm at all times.  Of course use prudence, and do not overheat or dehydration will occur.

 

In severe cases you may need to force feed for a time and give electrolyte solution or Pedialyte with an oral syringe.  Give B vitamins to stimulate appetite.  As your puppy improves he will begin to eat on his own and then you can gradually phase back in his regular food.

 

In Summary:

1) Always keep Nutri-Cal/ Fortical or Glucose Gel on hand.  This is the quickest way to revive a hypoglycemic puppy.

2) If you ever see your puppy becoming listless, or laying on his side and acting unresponsive IMMEDIATELY Rub Nutri-Cal/ Fortical, glucose gel, or Karo syrup on the puppy's gums, under his tongue, and on the roof of the mouth.  Slowly warm him to normal body temperature with a heating pad.  Feed him as soon as he responds.  Call your veterinarian if the puppy does not quickly respond.

3) Keep your puppy from chilling, free of parasites, and minimize stress.

4) See that your puppy eats often and maintains a proper body weight.

5) Do not over-handle your puppy.  Be sure to allow him rest time and alone time.  Like all babies, puppies need to have a regular schedule of rest, meals, play and potty.

 

Collapsing trachea

By Dr. Becker

 

Tracheal collapse is a chronic, progressive disease involving the windpipe, or trachea.

 

The trachea is somewhat like a vacuum cleaner hose that contains small rings, in this case cartilage that keeps the airways open.  The rings are C-shaped, with the open part of the "C" facing upward.  Running along the top opening of the C-rings is a band of tissue called the dorsal membrane.

 

How the Trachea Collapses

In certain dogs, the rings of cartilage are either not formed correctly at birth, or they weaken and begin to change from a C-shape to more of a U-shape.  As the dorsal membrane stretches, the cartilage rings get progressively flatter until eventually the trachea just collapses, leaving the dog trying to pull air through what is essentially a closed straw.  Tracheal collapse can be congenital, which means it's present from birth, or it can be acquired.  When the condition is congenital, it appears to be a result of a deficiency in certain components of the cartilage rings, like calcium, chondroitin, glycoproteins and glycosaminoglycans.  Acquired tracheal collapse is often caused by chronic respiratory disease, Cushing's disease and heart disease.  Collapse of the trachea in the neck occurs when the dog breathes in.  Collapse of the trachea in the chest occurs when the dog breathes out.  The collapse can involve the bronchi that feed air to the lungs, which results in serious airway obstruction in the dog.

 

Symptoms

Tracheal collapse is most common in small breed dogs like the Chihuahua, Lhasa Apso, Maltese, Pomeranian, pug, Shih Tzu, toy poodle and the Yorkie.  One of the first signs of tracheal collapse can be a sudden attack of dry coughing that sounds a little bit like a goose honk.  It progresses from the goose honk sound to a more consistent cough and often occurs when there's pressure placed on the dog's trachea.  This can happen when the dog is picked up or if the collar is pulled.  As the disease progresses, the dog can develop exercise intolerance, obvious respiratory distress, and gagging while eating or drinking.  Some dogs with tracheal collapse can turn blue when they are excited or stressed.  Certainly, secondary heart disease can result from the consistent straining to breathe.  Some dogs have both laryngeal paralysis and tracheal collapse.  These dogs usually make a wheezing sound when they breathe in.

 

Diagnosis of Tracheal Collapse

Tracheal collapse can sometimes be seen on a regular X-ray as a narrowing of the tracheal lumen, or opening.  Fluoroscopy, which is a moving X-ray, allows the vet to visualize the dog's trachea as he breathes in and out.  An endoscopy allows a view of the inside of trachea with a tiny camera.  It really provides the best way of viewing the inside of the airway.  During this time, the veterinarian can also take samples of the trachea for culture and sensitivity tests or additional analysis.  Sometimes an echocardiogram is recommended to evaluate heart function.  Any disease of the upper or lower airway can be mistaken for tracheal collapse, including a foreign object in the airway, laryngeal paralysis, an elongated soft palate, infection of the trachea, lungs, or heart failure, as well as tumors or polyps.  So it's pretty important that you get a definitive diagnosis and not just a guess.

 

Treatment Options

Conventional medical management of mild to moderate cases of tracheal collapse involve the use of cough suppressants, antispasmodics, bronchodilators, and sedatives to help reduce coughing spasms and the associated anxiety.  It's important to break the coughing cycle, because coughing irritates the airway and leads to more coughing.  If infection is present, of course, that has to be addressed as well.  And certainly if the dog is overweight, it's really important that he lose weight.  I also recommend you evaluate your dog's environment.  It should be smoke-free and free of other environmental pollutants.  Any dog with a collapsing trachea should be walked using a harness only.  I absolutely do not recommend anything around the neck, as reducing all pressure at the throat is really important for these dogs.

 

Medical management works for about 70 percent of dogs with the mild form of this condition.  Holistic veterinarians usually recommend cartilage builders to help maintain the integrity of the tracheal cartilage.  These supplements can include glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM, eggshell membrane, and CMO, which is also called cetyl myristoleate.  Sometimes, chiropractic and acupuncture have also been demonstrated to reduce the intensity of the duration of coughing episodes.  In more severe cases or for dogs who don't respond to medical management, sometimes surgery is recommended.  If the collapse is happening in the neck or the thoracic inlet, plastic rings are placed surgically around the inside of the trachea.  If the collapse is deeper in the chest, often a stent is placed in the trachea.  A stent is basically like a tiny spring that holds the trachea open.  Repair of a tracheal collapse is a very specialized surgical procedure.  Don't let your veterinarian tell you that it's no big thing.  These particular procedures have significant potential for complications.  They should only be performed by a veterinary surgeon that has really extensive knowledge and a well-equipped hospital with a staff able to help your dog recover from this significant procedure in an appropriate manner.

 

Molera (a.k.a. fontanel)

All Chihuahuas are born with an opening at the top of their skull called a molera or open fontanel.

 

Humans have a similar opening when they are born called a soft spot.  In 80% of cases, a Chihuahua’s molera will develop normally.  In some cases the molera stays open in the adult and is a hereditary characteristic.  It is important to note that while many Chihuahua puppies are born without the molera, there are probably just as many born with one and its presence is nothing to become alarmed over.

 

The molera in a Chihuahua will occur on the top of the head and may vary in shape and size when present.

 

Unfortunately, many lay people and some veterinarians not familiar with the Chihuahua have tried to link the mere presence of a molera with the condition known as hydrocephalus.  This has caused many new-comers to the breed serious concern and undue worry.  The truth is that a domed head with a molera present does not predispose the Chihuahua to this condition.  Along with the observations of devoted breeders over the years, there is adequate medical evidence to support this statement.  Drs. Walker and Rivers, Veterinarians at the University of Minnesota concluded that there did not appear to be any relationship between the presence or size of a fontanel and the condition of hydrocephalus.

 

Dr. Alexander de Lahunta of Cornell University in New York, one of the top neurologists in this country, stated that it would be wrong to conclude that any opening is abnormal.

 

While it would be impossible to list all the medical documentation here on this page, these few included here are perfectly clear; the presence of a molera does not mean the Chihuahua has a medical problem.

 

Anesthesia (during spaying or neutering, for example)

Anesthesia for Chihuahuas can be harmful to them because of their size.  Most Chihuahuas do fine under anesthesia, but on the other hand they have had problems with handling the anesthesia or have even died while under or after the surgery was over.  Vets can use a milder form of anesthesia on your Chihuahua, so ask them before your Chihuahua goes under.  A lot of things have changed from years ago and anesthesia is safer than it was many years ago!

 

How risky is anesthesia for your dog?

There are always risks when any anesthetic agent is administered to a patient, regardless of the length of time the patient is anesthetized.  In fact, it is estimated that approximately 1 in 100,000 animals will have some sort of reaction to an anesthetic agent.  Reactions can range from mild to severe and include a wide variety of symptoms, such as swelling at the injection site to more serious outcomes such as anaphylactic shock or death.  While these statistics seem alarming, your dog is just as much at risk getting into the car to go to the veterinary hospital for the anesthetic event.  The good news is there are many things you can do to reduce your dog's risk!

Fasting for several hours prior to anesthesia, as directed by your veterinarian, is important to reduce your dog's risk.  If your dog has not fasted prior to anesthesia, she could vomit and possibly aspirate food or fluid into her lungs, even with intubation (tube to keep the airway open).  This could potentially result in a condition called aspiration pneumonia, which can be life-threatening.

 

How to minimize the risks of anesthesia on your dog

Make sure your veterinarian knows your dog’s complete history before the anesthetic event.  Their vaccine history, lifestyle, and any medications he/she takes all influence how they may respond to anesthesia.  Your veterinarian may recommend a pre-surgical examination and diagnostic tests that help identify any underlying conditions that should be addressed before your dog undergoes anesthesia.

 

Recommended diagnostic tests usually include:

Chemistry tests to evaluate kidney, liver, and pancreatic function, as well as sugar levels.  A complete blood count (CBC) will rule out blood-related conditions.  Electrolyte tests ensure your dog isn't dehydrated or suffering from an electrolyte imbalance.  Additional tests may be added on an individual basis.  Your veterinarian will recommend the right thing for your best friend.

 

In addition to blood tests, your veterinarian may recommend the following:

The placement of an intravenous (IV) catheter is part of the anesthetic preparation.  The catheter can be used to provide anesthetics and intravenous fluids to keep your pet hydrated; additionally, if needed, it would serve as a pathway to directly administer life-saving medications, should a crisis arise.  Intravenous fluids help maintain hydration and blood pressure.  IV fluids also help your pet with her recovery process by aiding the liver and kidneys in clearing the body of anesthetic agents more quickly.

What to expect on the day of the anesthetic/surgical event: your veterinarian and/or veterinary staff will answer any questions you may have before your dog receives anesthesia.  They may ask you to review and sign a consent form that describes all of their recommended services prior to the anesthetic event and during the procedure.  It is very important to review the forms and have all your questions answered.

 

How your dog is monitored during anesthesia

Several safeguards are put into place to help reduce your dog's risk during anesthesia.

They include:

The surgical assistant/veterinary technician: A technician or assistant is present during the anesthetic event to monitor your dog's vital signs and to help adjust anesthetic levels, under the direction of the veterinarian.

A heart rate monitor counts your pet's heartbeats per minute.  Anesthesia and other factors, such as surgery itself, can affect heart rate.  By monitoring your dog's heart rate, your veterinarian can make anesthetic adjustments quickly.

An electrocardiogram (ECG) monitors your dog's heart rate and heartbeat pattern.  It can detect abnormal heartbeats called arrhythmias.  If an arrhythmia is detected, your veterinarian can make suitable changes in anesthesia.  Core body temperature may be monitored, especially if your dog is undergoing a prolonged surgical procedure.  Changes in body temperature can cause dangerous complications.

A blood pressure monitor measures your dog's blood pressure.  When used in conjunction with other monitoring equipment, it provides detailed information on your pet's cardiovascular condition.

Pulse oximetry may be used to monitor the amount of oxygen in your dog's blood and pulse rate.

Carbon dioxide (C02) is often monitored together with oxygen, as it helps determine if your pet is receiving the right amount of oxygen during anesthesia.

 

How soon after anesthesia will your dog is back to normal?

Recent improvements in anesthetic agents allow for a quick recovery, and your dog should almost be back to normal when you pick him/her up after the anesthetic event.  They may seem more tired than normal when they go home.  This has as much to do with the stress of the visit to the veterinary hospital as to the anesthetic itself!

Make sure you follow all go-home instructions for your dog, including feeding instructions.

 

Things That Can Be Done Before, During and After Your Chihuahua Goes Under

1. Your vet can run pre-anesthetic testing that can uncover problems before your Chihuahua goes under anesthesia.  However, this is an added cost to your bill but is a good idea to prevent something from happening to your Chihuahua.

2. Inhalant gas (Halothane, Isoflurane, and Sevoflurane) is much safer than using injectable agents to achieve an appropriate level of anesthesia.  Ask your vet before your Chihuahua goes under, what would be best for them.

3. Having a tube in the trachea prevents aspiration of fluids or vomit.

4. Monitoring your Chihuahua’s breathing, keeping track of their pulse rate and oxygen saturation, blood pressure, respiratory rate, carbon dioxide levels, and electrical rhythm of the heart.  (Remember, your vet could charge for all of these extra precautions.  So it is best to know what is included and not assuming that all the precautions are included!) When your Chihuahua is being monitored appropriately it allows veterinarians and technicians to detect trends and initiate therapy to avoid anesthetic problems.

5. Many vets use fluid therapy by intravenous catheter during anesthesia to keep vascular volume and blood pressure normal, to ensure that your Chihuahua will go home with the same number of viable brain and kidney cells that they had before anesthesia.

6. Many vets use thermal support such as warmed water blankets or air blankets for dogs during anesthesia, so your Chihuahua won't become hypothermic, changing the rate at which drugs are metabolized or excreted.  Dogs kept warm during anesthesia have a more predictable response to anesthetic agents and recover more quickly.

 

Eye injuries

It's certainly not a condition, but because Chihuahuas have big eyes and live close to the floor, they are more prone to eye injuries than a lot of other breeds.  Put several drops of saline solution in your dog's eye if the injury seems minor.  That's often all it takes to flush out a foreign object that was accidentally kicked up by someone's shoe.  If that doesn't relieve the problem, or if the injury appears more serious, take your Chihuahua to the vet.

 

Dental problems

Chihuahuas and other small breeds are especially prone to dental problems.  While dogs have heartier teeth than humans, they're still afflicted by dental problems such as gingivitis and plaque.  Diet and prevention can help your dog maintain healthy dental hygiene without costly trips to the vet.  Chihuahua dental problems do increase your pet health care costs.  Additionally, they can create serious pain and life threatening illness for your dog!  Here are some ways to recognize, prevent and treat dental decay in Chihuahuas.

 

The Breath Test

Sniff your dog's breath.  Not a field of lilies? That's okay - normal doggie-breath isn't particularly fresh-smelling.  However, if his breath is especially offensive and is accompanied by a loss of appetite, vomiting or excessive drinking or urinating, it's a good idea to take your pooch to the vet.

 

Lip Service

Once a week, with your dog facing you, lift his lips and examine his gums and teeth.  The gums should be pink, not white or red, and should show no signs of swelling.  His teeth should be clean, without any brownish tartar.

 

Signs of Oral Disease

The following are signs that your dog may have a problem in his mouth or gastrointestinal system and should be checked by a veterinarian:  Bad breath, excessive drooling, inflamed gums, tumors in the gums, cysts under the tongue, loose teeth, unusual attitude or personality changes, sensitivity or resistance to having their mouth and jaw touched.

 

The Bottom Line on Tooth Decay

Plaque builds up on the teeth and turns into tartar.  These areas grow bacteria and eat away at the teeth and gums.  Halitosis, periodontal disease, oral pain and tooth loss can occur. However, the bacteria do not only cause disease in the mouth - they can also affect other parts of the body, like the heart and kidneys. The most important thing to do is address dental disease as soon as it is detected, no matter how minor. Better yet, work hard to prevent it!

 

Is it good to brush my dog’s teeth?

Yes, it lowers the risk of dental plaque and decreases the smelly breath. Ideally use a enzyme-tooth paste for dogs and clean your dogs teeth with child’s tooth brush or a special dog’s toothbrush. Some owners use the toothpaste on their fingers and rub it into the dog’s teeth. Better results are reached by using a tooth brush.